WNY Handyman

My wife found a wonderful project that she wanted to complete on her own.  The only help that she needed (wanted) from me was the purchase of a few packs of shims.

I purchased 2 different types of shims and it turned out that the grain pattern between the 2 was wildly different.  This allowed for some nice contrast in the mirror.

• Shim 1:
  http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202533319/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
• Shim 2:
  http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100082960/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Shim Mirror - A mirror made from shims

Anyone who has turned a screwdriver has probably experienced a stripped wood screw.  There isn’t much to it.  In fact, if you are hanging a door, you will marvel at how easy it is to strip the hole.  Fiixing that hole is not as difficult as you might think.  I have a few quick solutions for you to try.

The most common case of the stripped wood screw comes in the form of door hinges.  A door is heavy, is often abused, and the factory screw might only be 5/8″ – 3/4″ long.  There isn’t much for the screw to bite into, and in many cases it will be a material such as MDF.  It essentially turns to dust once crushed.  If you remove the screw and send it back in on a different thread line, you will destroy what little holding power was left.

Fix a stripped wood screw

Here are the three methods that I use.  The method that I use can depend on the material and supplies that I have present.  It can also depend on how much time between returning the screw to the stripped hole.

1. Toothpicks and glue.
   This is a method that my father showed me some 30 years ago.  Don’t over-think this one.  Slip a toothpick or two into the hole and snap them off where they exit the hole.  If the hole is all the way through the material, you may want to wedge a couple in there.  Adding some wood glue to the hole isn’t necessary, but I know that if I need to pull the screw from that hold in the future, it will hold my repair in place.  (Again, don’t over-think it, it could be Elmer’s white glue, construction adhesive, etc).  If you don’t have any toothpicks on the job site (who does) simply shave some material from a shim, or any other wood that you have nearby.  If you are a golfer, and the hole is large enough, grab a golf tee.  It might just be the perfect size to fill. If you do use a tee, you might want to drill a pilot hole so you don’t crack your material.
2. Sawdust and glue.
   This method is more for filling a hold that you wont be using any more. Mix up some glue and sawdust (more saw dust than glue) and pack it in the hole. If you have the same saw dust as the material, you will end up with a close color match.  Once packed, dust the surface with a bit more of the sawdust to get the color a bit closer.
3. Sandpaper.
   This is a method that I realized was very effective.  During the finishing stages of a recent project I had 3 stripped screws on a door hinge.  I didn’t have any wood handy and happened to have a bit of sandpaper.  I simply tore the sandpaper and rolled it up so that I could slip it into the hold. It worked perfectly.  The grit on the paper was facing out and did a terrific job in biting the wood.  The paper on the back worked great to allow the screw to turn in and seat.

I have heard this question many times.  How do I cut crown molding?

Quick note for everyone. Buy more crown molding than you think you will need.  The extra 10′ of molding will be a lot less money than the time and money you will spend on gas.

I still remember the time I asked a worker to put crown molding up in a room only to come back 2 hours later with 1 single piece of molding up in the room.  I asked what was taking so long.  He told me it took him over an hour to adjust the 2 angles on the saw.  Unfortunately, I assumed he know the “simple crown molding trick“.  Crown molding can be incredibly tricky unless you know the trick.

The simple trick to cut crown molding:

1. Angle your mitre saw at 45 degrees
2. Place your crown molding on the saw upside down at the angle that it would be placed against the wall/ceiling
3. Make your cut
4. Place and adjust

How to cut crown molding

This short guide will give you a method to build a simple chair rail that is inexpensive and easy to build. The end result provides a much more finished look that your typical off the shelf molding can. With the cost of molding today, the price per square foot should be about half (50%, 1/2) of what you would spend for molding and will look like a custom job. Hey, it is a custom job.

Tools needed:
Router
Router Bit (chamfer bit, cove bit, or any other profile you would like to see)
Table Saw (optional. Purchase your lumber in the exact width -1″x2″ nominal- if you don’t have one)
Hammer
150 grit Sand Paper

Material Needed:
Pine board: For each 8′ of wall length, you will need 1 8′ 1″x4″ pine board. As knot free as possible without spending too much.
2″ finish nails
Paint (trim color of your choice)
Caulk (I prefer White Alex Plus Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone)

When you begin, you should already have your wall surface material in place. In this case, you can see that we used a Ply-bead material.  Once that is secured to your wall, you will add your face material.  This must be nice and level as it supports that cap and provides you with the nice visual level line.  Your cap piece will be secured to this.  If you desire a profile on this piece, do so before securing.  In our case, we routed a 45 degree chamfer on the lower edge.  When you ease the edge of a trim piece, it gives a much nicer (and more professional) visual.

You should either have a level line, or level as you go.  The length of your run will probably determine which way you go. If you are doing a 20′ long room, snap a level chalk line, or use a laser level to create a line to follow.  Secure your 1″x2″ to the wall using your finish nails.  The 2″ face should be against the wall and your profile (chamfer or other) should face down.

Once secured, you are ready for your cap.  The cap pictured is simply a 1″x2″ piece of poplar.  You can use any type of lumber, but I prefer poplar due to the lack of knots and ability to hold paint very well.  Set your piece down upon the face molding that you just secured and press so that it is flush with your wall.   Just about any wall will have some waves or imperfections.  You can take much of that out by pressing your lumber cap in toward the wall.  If you are using a white paint (like me) you will be able to cover anything that exists with a nice smooth bead of caulk.

Once your cap is in place, simply secure with finish nails by nailing into the face piece below (the 1″x2″ piece).  You should angle back to avoid exiting out the face.

There you have it.  A simple chair rail detail that is inexpensive, professional, and custom looking.  Good luck with your own chair rail. Get creative and consider incorporating moldings into your face piece. The room that the 1×2 cap piece provides will allow you ample depth to experiment.

Update 8/15/2011: The bunk beds are in.  I am really surprised at how much space a bunk bend affords you.  This was a rather tight room (we were calling it the “no-room-room”), but as you can see the bunk beds fit nicely and provide a nice amount of space for a dresser/desk.  The ceiling fan will be moving.

Bunk Beds with lights

Bunk Beds

As we mentioned earlier, our next project is a Lake Erie Cottage.  We should be closing before the end of the month (July 2011) and have already been hard at work with some project planning for when we arrive.

Project 1: Bunk Beds
My son and any of his visiting friends will need a place to sleep.  The air mattress will get pretty old after the 2nd night.  I decided to build a simple set of bunk beds.  What kid wouldn’t want a set of bunk beds?  My goal was to find a set of plans online that were for a simple bed that feels right in the space.  I didn’t want anything that was too fussy (Bunk Bed Plans) or too large.  Price was a consideration as well.  A minimal amount of hardware such as rail brackets or ladder hangers would be a great way to save money on the project. If the ladder and rails are integrated into the design, there wouldn’t be a need for $50 in extra hardware.

Bunk Bed Project

I ended up selecting a plan from ana-white.com.  The plan is simple and has an integrated ladder.  This is built with common lumber and comes in at about $80-$100 in material (not including mattresses).  If you are going to build your own set from the Ana White plan, be sure to read the comments. The material list is not accurate.

This project is an easy one to build since it is essentially 4 wide ladders that are then bolted together. If you choose to take them down, simply remove the bolts and hide them away.

Update 8/01/2011: The bunk bed project is moving along. The structure has been built and painting is taking place. As you can see, the garage is a bit of a mess.

Bunk bed painting

Father’s Day is upon us.  Last year, my son (via my wife), purchased the book “Handy Dad” by Todd Davis.  This book is absolutely terrific.  There are 25 projects for all skill levels.  Some of the projects can be completed in a very short period of time while others (such as the skateboard ramp) will take a weekend or two.

If you are looking for projects to build with you kids, this book is a terrific buy.  Dad’s, let your wife know.  Mom’s go ahead and purchase this book for your kids to give to Dad.  They will both love it.  There might be some reckless projects in the book (go cart) but that is part of the fun.